Friday, March 27, 2015

Nepal, Sherpa villages trek



  Trekking in Nepal is one of the greatest pleasures of a holiday one can imagine. Amongst the trekking areas one of the most popular regions is the  Everest area or the Khumbu Region.

  After  a scenic mountain flight to Lukla, one can get organized to start trekking in the Khumbu region. Past the busy little town of Lukla, you get on  to the main trail leading towards Phakding (2630m)which is about 2 1/2hrs away. The rack seems well defined and except for a few places there should be no confusion getting to Phakding. 

  Going downhill and traversing to arrive at Choplung, you may rest and have a bite/drink as Choplung has a few lodges.

As you head towards Thado kosi you can get a view of Kusum Kang Guru also known as the three sister peak. In about you may rest and have a bite/drink as Choplung have a few lodges. In about an hour you will reach Phakding where you can spend the night. Depending on your time of arrival at Lukla you can plan your day and if you would like to stay at Phakding or carry on towards Monjo ( 2.800m), which is approximately 2 hrs.

 From here, on the way to Monjo you cross the Dudh Kosi for the first time over a suspension bridge. After crossing the bridge and trekking along, you get a great view of Thamserku, Kusum Kang guru as you approach Toc Toc where you may also rest for a while and enjoy the view. You will soon be arriving at Benkar where you may stop for another rest and a cup  of tea with Thamserku in the fore ground. You will cross the Dudh Kosi again before your gradual ascent to Monjo through  Choumo.



 Monjo is a small village with a few lodges which are good and serve good food. Now you’re almost into the Sagarmatha National Park Area and as you start your trek from here you will need to furnish your Park Entry Permits at the Army check post. From here you get to see Khumbila the holy mountain of the Khumbu, which you are not allowed to climb and is also a snowless rocky peak. It is approximately about four hour to Namche (3440m) from here and the track goes up and up and up…There are three bridges to cross.
  After checking in at the entry point go down and then cross the first bridge over the Dudh Kosi. You will arrive at Jorsale which is the last village before Namche. Make sure you have your water bottles filled and have some snack in your pack. From the banks of the river where you cross one more time and walk along the banks. You will be getting to the confluence of the Dudh Kosi and the Bhote Kosi over which lies the high bridge.


  Crossing this bridge brings you to the dreaded uphill to Namche, you will be getting to an elevation of over 3000m and you will get the first view of the mighty Everest from Tope Danda. Looking back you still get to see Thamserku, Kusum Kang Guru and now you  will also be looking at Tawache on your right.


 Namche is the Capital of the Khumbu and the most prominent town of the region with almost all kinds of basic facilities.

  There is a medical clinic in Kunde, a dentist internet/email access and lodges of all categories, bakeries, pool bars and shopping outlets. There are some nice walks towards Phurte or to Khumjung which you do on your rest day and is also helpful for getting acclimatized to the thin air, or if you are not in the mood for a long walk you may just visit the museum at the Army headquarters which is approximately twenty minutes away up.

 Remember not to get lured into the bar for a drink as drinking can enhance acute mountain sickness. It is also the place from where you need to decide which valley you would like to go to, as this is the junction from where the tracks to different valleys separate. 

 Lukla on the way back may be new to you because on the day you started your trek, you were to excited to notice the town. You have time now to look into the cafes, bars and bakeries in town.


 You may even want to try the local brew “chang”,  millet beer. It is also the time to check with the airlines and find out about your flight back to Kathmandu and reminisce about your days in the Khumbu.



 Most Sherpa settlements are found at altitudes of 3,000 to 6,000 meters.


 These high altitude environments are prone to unpredictable climatic and geomorphological conditions. Growing seasons are short, and there is often the risk of early frosts or snowstorms. The slopes are steep and farming and grazing is often difficult. However, despite these challenges, the Sherpa have managed to subsist in their environment by employing a system of agro-pastoralism. This method combines stationary village agriculture with a nomadic system of herding.

 This way of life has been crucial to Sherpa survival. Sherpa women have an important role in daily life, caring for the children and performing a large share of any farming or yak herding the family does. If a woman's husband is a porter or guide, she will take over as head of the household during expeditions.One of the most remarkable aspects of Sherpa life is the absence of wheels. Because of the treacherous landscape, almost no wheeled transportation exists in the Solu-Khumbu region, not even wheelbarrows.

 Instead of roads and automobiles, Sherpas get from place to place on foot paths. That means that whenever they need to transport anything -- such as firewood, produce or building materials -- it goes on their yaks or their backs. Many Sherpas, especially poorer ones, become accustomed to bearing heavy loads from a young age, hauling their families' cargo or working as porters for wealthier people.


 It is common amongst the Sherpa for one woman to have multiple husbands.

  This polyandrous form of marriage is a means of population and communal resource control. Since many men are gone during the year, due to migration and the growing business of trekking, polyandry assures that at least one man will be at home with the wife at all times.

It allows inherited property to stay as a complete package, instead of being broken up and distributed amongst brothers. It serves as a kind of population control because there is only one child-bearing female amongst multiple sons. 

This limits the number of children, as well as the number of households in the village Polyandry as a from of population and communal resource control has become very important in this agro-pastoralist society. 

 Isn’t it wonderful living in such beautiful mountains but these people have a really tough life.

  They have no yellow school buses to take them to schools. No mode of transport is available other than their two feet or on a yak’s back. It is not an easy lifestyle but they have used it to their advantage. Their main occupation is mountaineering as they are excellent in trekking and climbing mountains.